Belgian Beer Fest ’11 (Saturday Night Session)

The Belgian Beer Fest

I have always had a great appreciation for Belgian beers.  There is a rich history that goes with every beer brewed in Belgium and with the Trappist influence and spontaneous fermentation these beers are incredibly intriguing.  I could probably write an entire article on the history of Belgian beer but will save that for another time.  If you want to learn more I suggest reading “Brew Like a Monk” by Stan Hieronymus.  Stan does a great job explaining the Trappist lifestyle and provides a ton of information on every Trappist brewery.

The Belgian Beer Fest was hosted by both BeerAdvocate and Allagash Brewing Company (famous for their Belgian-inspired Allagash White).  I was most excited for the scaled down approach of this festival and was looking forward to visiting a fewer, more specialized breweries than during the American Craft Beer Fest (which featured over 100 different breweries pouring over 500 craft beers).  The Belgian Beer Fest featured only around 40 different breweries the night I attended (there were 3 different sessions).  The Night of the Funk on Friday is usually the main draw and includes beers ranging from traditional Belgian beers to inspired American Wild Ales.  I wasn’t able to make this session although next year I would love to attend.

I decided to buy a VIP ticket to the later Saturday session which I felt had a better speakers panel than the earlier one.  I also later learned that the VIP ticket allowed me to cut the line which was definitely a huge added bonus (unfortunately it cost about $17 more than the regular ticket).  The speakers for the event included:

• Alec Lopez, Armsby Abbey
• Joe Lipa, Merchant du Vin
• Steve Villani, Global Beer Network
• Tomme Arthur, The Lost Abbey

I arrived at the event with a friend of mine a bit later than I had wanted but we used our “VIP status” to head right in and cut the entire line (which I felt a little bad about).  The festival was being held at The Cyclorama at The Boston Center For The Arts.  It was a tiny room compared to the Seaport World Trade Center (about 1/8 the size) but created a nice cozy atmosphere that made everything a bit more personal.  The crowd was also a bit calmer than at the American Craft Beer Fest and these people seemed to be attending to try new craft beers as opposed to going to a big party.  After getting our wristbands and cups we decided to take a walk around to survey what was available.  After tasting about 10 different beers we decided it was time to take our seats for the forum.

The crowded Belgian Beer Fest tasting floor

The forum started promptly at 7pm and the the speakers gave brief introductions then discussed their approach to Belgian beers and how they select them for brewing, retail and wholesale distribution.  They explained how many of the monasteries care less about profits and more about how it much it is enjoyed by the general public, something I found to be very interesting.  They also talked about how brave you have to be to open a brewery in Belgium.  With over 1,000 different beers available already and in a country the size of Maryland, you have to be a bit nuts.  There was a brief history lesson after that and then we got to drinking.

Joe Lipa brought two of my favorite beers of the entire festival.  The first was Orval Trappist Ale which poured a hazy light amber color with floral, citrus and spice aromas.  Nice tart flavors with a surprisingly full bodied mouthfeel.  There was a slight hop bite with cider-like flavors.  Very complex and interesting.  The next was Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René.  This beer poured a golden color with very gentle aromas of fruit.  The flavors were tart and refreshing with hints of yeast and cellar-like flavors.  This was a very simple beer with quite a bit of depth.

The 2oz tasting cup and the tasting floor beginning to fill up

Steve Villani brought Gulden Draak (draft and bottle) and Wittekerke.  Gulden Draak was a really great beer.  A very dark beer with sweet citrus aromas.  The sip began with malty sweetness with some spicy alcohol flavors.  There was a sweet aftertaste as well that faded slowly.  The Gulden Draak draft, which undergoes a second fermentation in the keg tasted more mature and developed.  Both were very good.  Witterkerke was a good beer but nothing incredibly special.  It poured a pale yellow and contained aromas of lemon zest and other citrus fruits.  Fruity flavors surround the mouth as well and cause a nice mix with the medium bodied beer.  Some yeast flavors are present as well.

Tomme Arthur, Co-Founder and Director of Brewery Operations of The Lost Abbey, brought his own brewed Inferno Ale.  The Lost Abbey, located in California, brews up some fantastic Belgian-inspired beers.  Inferno poured a hazy yellow color and contained yeast and sweet malts.  The flavors were very mild but a bit spicy with a bit of sweetness.  A very drinkable and enjoyable beer.

My favorite beers (other than what the speakers brought):

1. Mad Scientist #4 (Sixpoint): Brewed with hibiscus which gives the beer a really pretty pinkish red color.  The nose is gentle with some floral notes and even some malt.  Flavors were very similar to the aromas and malty sweetness, floral flavors and some citrus notes harmonized to near perfection.  There was a little tartness at the end as well.
2. 2010 Poppa Skull (Dogfish Head Craft Brewery): This beer was brewed once in 2010 as a collaboration with 3 Floyds Brewing Company.  This Belgian Strong Pale Ale intrigued me a lot.  It poured a hazy deep orange color with aromas of cardamom (which it is brewed with) and yeast.  Flavors were sweet but full and complex with other hints of spice, yeast and bready malt.  There is also a clear oak flavor and some alcohol at the end.
3. Field Mouse’s Farewell (Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project): An excellent Saison that has many floral and fruity aromas.  Very crisp and clean tasting with great malt and fruit flavors that popped from this medium bodied beer.

Honorable mentions: White Birch Deviant Monk, Harpoon Saison Various and Chapeau Lambics

Overall, I had a great time at the Belgian Beer Fest and am looking forward to attending next year.  Definitely something every beer lover should consider going to.

Map of Belgian breweries

 

The Beer Brand Identity

“People don’t just drink beer.  They drink the brand that lies behind the beer.  And, while many image-defining brands are expensive, like Mercedes or Gucci, even the very best beer is an affordable luxury – a way for the common man to make a statement without breaking the bank.  When someone walks into a bar and steps up to the counter to order a beer, the brand he shouts out says something about him as a person.” - Julie Macintosh, Author of “Dethroning The King“

Beer is a lot like fashion.  There is a wide variety of products ranging in price points and styles.  The choices you make within those categories are what makes a statement about who you are.  Do you wear the latest trends or buy from the bargain bucket?  Do you drink Dogfish Head or Bud Light?  Of course there are many choices in between that say something just as important and the best thing about beer is that you can make a clear statement without breaking the bank.

Marketing is all about creating a brand identity and the perceptions that you want your product to be associated with.  I have skirted around the perceptions of beer in other articles but would like to tackle this issue head on and see if we can’t change some of them.  The large brewing companies (Miller-Coors and Anheuser-Busch) focus on advertising.  Your home is their battleground and your money is what they want.  We are constantly forced to internalize the perceptions that they incorporate with their brands based on what demographic they want to reach (and they do a great job at it).

Miller-Coors and Anheuser-Busch are now realizing that the markets are changing and that they need to appear to be as well.  The unfortunate thing is that, instead of actually changing the product, they try to change the perceptions of their product to make mainstream drinkers feel a part of the “craft beer revolution”.  Breathable and temperature controlled cans (Coors Light), vortex bottles and “triple hops brewed” labels (Miller Lite) and even “born on dates” (Budweiser) are simply marketing tools.  The product is still very much the same.

Perceptions of beer are also starting to get away from “my father’s beer”.  Drinkers want more out of their experience with what they drink and want another outlet to express the type of person they are without conforming to the “mainstream”.  It is also important to note that what people choose to drink in their homes can be drastically different from what they drink out at a bar with friends.  When attending happy hours many people choose to drink the cheapest thing available – usually (Budweiser, Coors or Miller).  At home, they may drink the highest quality beer available.  It’s all about brand perception.  Some people may not feel entirely comfortable drinking a unique Belgian beer while everyone else is having Bud Light.  There is a need to fit in and to do so it still requires drinking the mainstream beers sometimes.

Brand equity is something that is incredibly important to large companies.  These companies pour billions of dollars into advertising to the general public and brand equity (or value) is how well these advertisements worked.  The name of the brand can raise the price of the product simply because it has created a reputation.  For example, Apple can sell an iPad for $500 whereas Samsung sells theirs at $350 – and has to sell at a lower price in order to compete in a similar market.  Anheuser-Busch understood this concept very well and exploited it to their advantage.  How did a mediocre, pale yellow, overly carbonated, bland beer become “The King of Beer”?  It wasn’t by accident.

August Busch III, CEO of Anheuser-Busch from 1975-2002, spent a good portion of his time in marketing.  Busch III realized that if he could market beer as an “American beverage” he could create Budweiser into a brand that was patriotic and synonymous with country unity and pride.  By creating quality advertisements that appealed to older and younger generations, Anheuser-Busch was able dominate the competition and win over consumers.  According to BrandFinance, Budweiser ranked as the 16th most valuable brand (beating out Apple, McDonalds and Disney).

Despite the fact that craft beer is a growing trend (and I hope it continues that way), the larger companies will always have the upper hand because they are what consumers see first.  They are able to completely dominate all advertising by spending billions of dollars.  It’s a true David vs. Goliath and David is poor, decades behind and more expensive.

Hopefully, future generations of beer drinkers will begin to demand a shift in what they drink.  Although these companies can simply switch strategies by purchasing craft breweries and adding them to their portfolio I hope consumers will choose to drink fresh and local as opposed to mass-produced and mediocre.

 

Can Beer Reviews Ruin The Drinking Experience?

Are beer reviews too distracting?

Trying a beer for the first time is an exciting experience.  The color of the beer, the carbonation rising up, the aromas, textures and flavors are all unique and have their own personalities.  Sometimes it’s hard to fully appreciate these traits if you have preconceived notions.  Reading a review before trying a beer can sometimes cause this to happen but can it ruin the entire drinking experience?

Since craft beer gained popularity, websites like BeerAdvocate and Rate Beer have become the voices of craft beer.  They allow beer drinkers to grade and review the beers they try and give each and every person a chance to be a beer connoisseur.  In this format, people’s opinions matter and, although there are also “expert opinions” on these sites, average drinkers can be heard.

Staying away from reviews when you have a new beer in the fridge is hard.  You want to know what other people thought of it and what you are getting yourself into once you crack it open.  The only problem is that after you have read several reviews your mind starts to absorb the information and by the time you open the beer you know what to expect.  If I read that someone tasted or smelled citrus in a certain hefeweizen, I most likely will too.  The flavors become less unique and although the beer may be amazing, it could have been a better experience if the senses were left to do their own job, unaltered by someone else’s opinion.

It’s also very difficult to know whether a review is “telling the truth.”  Every single person has a different palate and different preferences.  Some like incredibly hoppy beers whereas others enjoy malty sweetness.  Hopefully the reviews you read will give you an indication of the author’s preference and you can find one that fits your own.

People sharing their opinions is important to the craft beer movement.  It creates a community of beer drinkers and anyone can express their love or dislike for certain beers.  This creates a fantastic conversation and dynamic within the craft beer world and gives people a chance to understand that everyone has a different palate.  I see less bickering about craft beer than I do about anything else.

Reviews can also act as important buying tools when deciding between beers at your local market.  Craft beer is significantly more expensive than the mainstream brands (a Budweiser six-pack is priced around $10, whereas only a four-pack of 90 Minute IPA by Dogfish Head is the same amount) and a little due diligence may help in making the proper purchase.  Finding the right beer to try is important and no one wants to walk home with a six-pack of buyer’s remorse.

I believe that the positives of reading reviews outweigh the negatives and if beer drinkers use them to help guide their purchases they can be a great tool.  Reviewing is a necessary and important component to craft beer.  Everyone has an opinion about the beer they drink and often feel the need to share it with the world.  This sharing is a great thing for craft beer and creates an open conversation between drinkers.  But if you’re reading a review on a beer you’ve never tried take it with a grain of salt, as one person’s opinion doesn’t speak for the collective.  Try to find people that share your preferences and read their reviews.  Also, start keeping a log or journal of the different beers you tried and liked (or disliked).  It’s important to be able to understand your own palate.  If you want to have a “true beer experience” simply avoid the reviews but understand that people’s opinions are here to stay.

 

Gluten-Free Beer

Article written by Caitlyn Williams

Sorghum is a popular alternative to barley in gluten-free beer

Let’s be honest. Being intolerant to gluten didn’t exactly make me the life of the party in the college beer scene. “Sorry, I’m allergic,” I would bashfully respond when challenged to a game of beer pong. Now in the “real world” beer is everywhere. There are weekend festivals and tastings, barbeques with friends and specialty stores all over the world. It is cruel and unusual punishment to have to turn down a bottle of Saranac Brewery’s Pomegranate Wheat in the summer or Dogfish Head’s Punkin Ale in the fall.

Gluten-free beer is a growing trend in the United States and even around the world.  More and more people are realizing they are gluten intolerant or even have Celiac disease.  In order to make gluten-free beer, barley (the only traditional ingredient in beer with gluten) is substituted with other “wheat-like” substances such as buckwheat, sorghum or rice. Gluten is a protein found in wheat and it’s related species include barley, rye, and triticale. It is estimated that about 1 in 133 people has Celiac disease, an autoimmune response to the protein causing a blunting of the villi of the small intestine. This significantly decreases absorption of nutrients by the small intestine often leading to malnutrition and other unpleasant symptoms. Diagnosing Celiac disease is not always so straightforward and in my case, was inconclusive. What was clear, however, was that when I ate products with gluten in them, I was very sick. So after beginning a gluten-free diet 5 years ago, I felt that a part of my life was over. Being an avid baker and food-lover, I was sure that I would never find a warm chocolate chip cookie worth eating ever again or even a nice cold beer to enjoy with my friends. What I didn’t realize is that there are approximately 3.2 million people who cannot drink beer like me.

Delicious craft beers are being made everyday. Shouldn't people with an allergy to gluten get to join the fun?

After I spent a significant time mourning the loss of wheat in my life, I began to view my intolerance as a challenge. I have made it my mission to find ways to eat and drink happily alongside my friends. Wine is my default drink when I am looking for something special, but there are many situations that wine just doesn’t satisfy me. After all, who wants to be drinking a glass of wine while watching a baseball game or sitting on the beach with a bunch of friends in the summertime? I have explored hard cider for alternatives and have been quite pleased with what I have found (Woodchuck and Magners top the list). Yet, while I have enjoyed several different ciders, sometimes they are just a little too sweet for me. What I would really love is a nice, cold, crisp beer.

Redbridge, made by Anheuser-Busch, is probably the most popular gluten-free beer available

There is a huge market for gluten-free beers and it is not just gluten that makes a beer taste the way it does, but the other ingredients and the care that goes into the production. I can assure you that there is nothing comparable to the feeling of eating or drinking something that has been forbidden for so long. If craft breweries really are dedicated to the pure joy of beer, I certainly hope that they recognize how happy they could make millions of people, just like me, by simply experimenting with a different grain or two (or none at all). Let’s see what could happen!

GLUTEN-FREE REVIEWS

Redbridge: This beer, Owned by Anheuser-Busch, is probably the most well known and popular of the gluten-free beers (brewed using sorghum).  It pours a light amber color with a white head that slides into the beer slowly leaving very little lacing on the glass.  The aroma is hard to place and has a strange malty character to it (it wasn’t bad though).  The taste was a little lifeless (typical of an Anheuser-Busch product).  There was a sweet beginning, almost like molasses, then a bite from the hops, then a crisp sweet aftertaste.  Heavy carbonation throughout that tickles your tongue.  If you enjoy your beer sweet and drinkable (and gluten-free) this is the beer for you.

Bard’s Gold:  “The original sorghum malt beer” (or at least that’s what the box says) this beer pours a nice, deep honey color with little to no head.  Sweet molasses and brown sugar fill your nose.  There is a strange “bready” taste to this beer with some caramel mixed in.  Very similar to Redbridge in flavor, sweet with not much else going on.  Also, heavily carbonated which takes away from any other flavors that could be present.

Green's Triple Blonde Ale epitomizes the gluten-free craft beer

Green’s Triple Blonde Ale: Probably the best example of a “craft gluten-free beer”.  Green’s entire beer portfolio is filled with the more experimental side of gluten-free (using sorghum, rice, buckwheat and millet all together in their beers).  This beer pours a deep orange color with a small head that fades quickly.  The nose is filled with a very nice fruity and almost sour aroma.  The first sip is filled with heavy fruit flavor but is then attacked by the high alcohol content (8.5% ABV).  Once the palate gets used to it though the fruity, sweet flavors take over.  There is also a nice peach quality to this beer.  Much less carbonation when compared to Redbridge or Bard’s, probably because it’s bottle refermented (not force carbonated).  Definitely a higher quality beer that is a great option for those looking to get more out of their beer yet still saying gluten-free.

Green’s Discovery Amber Ale:  Still haven’t found a full-flavored gluten-free beer?  Look no further.  This beer pours a nice copper color, with a full, thick head that refuses to go away.  Sugar and light cherry aromas fill the nose.  The first sip is crisp but not too sweet and mixes nicely with a light hop bitterness.  The sorghum and buckwheat characteristics are hard to put a finger on but add to the complex flavors of this beer.  It finishes with a citrus sweet flavor.  The 6% ABV doesn’t push it either and the alcohol is undetectable.  Green’s does it again, a great gluten-free gem.

St. Peter's G-Free is a beautiful and tasty alternative

St. Peter’s G-Free: Brewed using sorghum in the UK, this beautiful caramel-colored beer has a small, airy head that produces lime and hop aromas.  Mildly sweet taste with hints of citrus and mandarin.  A hoppy, bitter character finishes off this beer and lingers during the aftertaste but doesn’t overwhelm the palate.  Take another sip, at only 4.2% ABV this is a fantastic beer to take you through the entire night.

Other gluten-free beers include: New Grist (Lakefront Brewery), everything brewed by Green’s and New Planet, a new Strawberry beer by Dogfish Head coming soon and other regional beers (check your local brewery or brewpub).

Overall, gluten-free beers don’t always taste exactly like “normal beer” but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing.  They provide a fantastic alternative for those allergic to wheat who want to “grab a cold one”.  Beer should be available to everyone no matter what their allergies are.  Hopefully, gluten-free beers will allow more people to understand and be a part of the simple of of having a beer.

Caitlyn Williams recently graduated from Hamilton College with a concentration in neuroscience. She is currently working as an AmeriCorps/Community HealthCorps member, developing and implementing a health education curriculum in a school district outside of New York City. She plans to attend medical school in the future. Caitlyn is very sensitive to gluten and has been living a gluten-free diet for the past 5 years.

 

The Dogfish Head Brewery Tour

The Dogfish Head Craft Brewery

Dogfish Head Brewery has a reputation that precedes itself and is best known for their creativity and innovation within the the craft beer industry.  They are proud to say that they are independently owned and the founder, Sam Calagione, has made it his mission to get the entire world to drink “good beer” (a noble goal).  Sam also appears to be more concerned with developing and releasing quality beer than he is about profits or elevating his own self-worth (which is quite high in craft beer circles).  Dogfish Head is constantly looking for ways to push the boundaries of beer and Michael Jackson, a well respected beer journalist, stated that Dogfish Head is “America’s most interesting and adventurous small brewery.”  Dogfish Head was at the top of my must-visit list.

The Steampunk Tree House

My dad and I started the four and a half hour journey to Milton, Delaware (Dogfish Head’s home) at around 8am.  After getting to Milton around noon, we grabbed some lunch and headed over to the brewery for a 2pm tour.

After parking we walked past the famous tree house (purchased for $1 on ebay) and some outside fermentation tanks.  The brewery is a modern-looking wood and stone building.  We went into the visitors entrance and into the gift shop/tasting room and found it  a bit uninviting.  Fluorescent lights lined the ceilings, a small wooden bar sat directly in the middle of the room with a couple of small stand alone tables on the left and to the right some merchandise including Festina Peche lip balm, 90 Minute IPA soap, Shelter Pale Ale shampoo and other interesting trinkets (I got a “Fort” coaster and a bottle opener).  The employees were all knowledgeable, helpful and friendly.

We were approached by one of the employees who ran the tours and since we were early he gave us each four drink tokens.  Today was IPA Day (unfortunately not my favorite style) so 60 Minute IPA, 90 Minute IPA, Burton Baton and 120 Minute IPA were the tastings offered and I enjoyed Burton Baton the most.

The tasting bar in the visitor center

The tour got started a little after 2pm and we first walked into the brewing room to see the brew kettles, mashing and lauter tuns.  The tour guide, a large man with a handle bar mustache, gave us a brief history lesson on Dogfish Head and founder Sam Calagione.  The most exciting thing to see was the original 12 gallon beer system that was used in the first brewpub (the average homebrewer uses a 5 gallon system).  This system allowed Sam to be more creative because if he created a terrible beer he only had to get dump out 12 gallons (even though we were told Sam and his friends just drank the bad beer).  We were also told that Dogfish Head is the only brewery that continuously hops their beer, meaning that they keep adding hops throughout the boiling process.

After the brew house we went into the fermentation room with stainless steel pipes lining the walls and large fermentation vessels.  The tour guide explained that Dogfish doesn’t force carbonate most of their beers but rather adds priming malts to their bottles in order to create carbonation.  We also learned that Dogfish had their very own “yeast expert” and laboratory to study the entire fermentation procedure and make sure it’s working to full capacity.

The original 12 gallon system used to get Dogfish up and running

The last stop was the “high alcohol room”.  There were three stainless steel tanks and three wooden ones.  Dogfish has the largest wooden tanks of any brewery since prohibition.  The first two were oak and the third was Palo Santo, a wood native to Paraguay used primarily for wine-making.  The oak tanks cost $60,000 which may seem like a fair amount until compared to the $140,000 paid for the Palo Santo, which apparently went through 17 diamond tipped saw blades to create it.

After the tour we headed for the brewpub, about 30 minutes away in Rehoboth Beach that they use for R & D for their new experimental beers.  When we got there around 3:30 the restaurant was already pretty busy.  We were lucky enough to get a booth and ordered wings with apple cider hot sauce (very good) and rosemary fries (mediocre).  When the waitress returned with the food we ordered a sample flight of Chicory Stout, Shelter Pale Ale, Palo Santo Marron, Raison D’Etre and Black & Red (a new dry minted beer with raspberry notes).  We were also informed that the new Starwberry Season Gluten-Free beer wasn’t available which I was disappointed in.  Apparently they were perfecting the recipe because the last batch they made was “too strong”.

The front of the Dogfish Head Brewpub in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware

The new beer the brewpub was offering, Black & Red, was a pitch black color and had a nice, brown lingering head.  It had a chocolate mint aroma, almost like a fresh york peppermint patty (really great) and a nice cooling mint taste with hints of molasses.  There wasn’t a strong raspberry taste but it was very smooth and refreshing for such a dark beer.  The alcohol (10.5% ABV) was almost undetectable.  A great beer that I can’t wait to buy at the supermarket.

Overall, an amazing trip to a great brewery.  With 16 years under their belt, Dogfish Head has a rich history and continues to grow and share their passion for great beer.  This is definitely a tour all beer lovers should take.

Our sampling of Dogfish beers (from left to right): Chicory Stout, Shelter Pale Ale, Palo Santo Marron, Raison D'Etre and Black & Red

 

The Italian Craft Beer Scene (Part 2: Diamonds in the Rough)

Inside The Vatican

On our second day in Rome (and after a not-so-great start to the beer adventure) we decided to shake off the bad beers and get to Open Baladin (a beer bar I heard about) later that night.  After spending most of the day touring the Vatican (a truly amazing place) and getting an incredible lunch at a restaurant named “La Soffitta” right outside the Vatican Museum (where I ordered another bland beer called “Nastro Azzuro”) we headed back to the hotel in the late afternoon to try to figure out how to get to the bar.  After a wild bus ride and navigating side streets we arrived at a little alley way with a small glass door with “Open Baladin” written on it.  I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

The bar at Open Baladin

The bar was a cool mix between urban vibe and nature,with steel tables and green plants throughout.  The atmosphere was great and the wait staff were knowledgeable and extremely helpful (especially with trying to figure out an Italian menu).  The beer included styles such as Saison’s, IPAs, Belgian Strong Ale’s, Blonde Ale’s, Weizen’s on draught, not to mention an entire bottle menu.  Not all the beers available were native to Italy and I had to be fairly careful not to get confused.

It wasn't much but it made my trip - Xyauyu Barley Wine

My friend started off her night with a “G-Free” by St. Peter’s Brewery (a gluten free beer) and  I decided on a Barley Wine called “Xyauyu” by Birrificio Le Baladin (I later found out the head brewer, Teo Musso, co-owns the bar).  It was delivered in a snifter and hailed a strong fruity aroma.  The first sip was velvety smooth with the alcohol lacing your entire mouth.  It felt like my tongue was pulling a silk cloth over itself.  It was packed with sherry and wine flavors and provided a warming feeling as it flowed throughout the body.  The alcohol content (12% ABV) was almost undetectable in the flavor and the sweetness/drinkability of this beer truly surprised me (in a fantastic way).  An absolutely amazing beer that will be in my top 3 for a very long time.  This was the kind of thing I was looking for and drinking bland, tasteless beer for so long made me truly appreciate the uniqueness of these craft beer flavors.

Some of the beers available at Open Baladin

The next beer I decided to try was a Spiced Ale called “Nora” by the same brewery.  It was delivered in a pint glass with a thick white head and deep copper and orange colors.  The aroma was packed with ginger and other spices I couldn’t necessarily put my finger on.  Orange and spice flavors swirled around the tongue.  It was very similar to many of the spice beers that Dogfish Head produces.  A very solid and flavorful beer.

PVK, a beautiful Belgian Witbier

After Nora it was time for “PVK”, a Belgian Witbier, made my L’Olmaia.  A beer made from oats, red pepper, coriander and bitter orange rind really got me excited.  The beer was an unfiltered orange color with a thick white head.  The aroma was packed with pepper and wood notes and the tastes were orange with little to no hop bitterness.  An incredibly drinkable beer perfect for a hot day in Rome.

Lastly, I decided to try something by the other co-owner of the bar, Leonardo Di Vincenzo of Birra Del Borgo.  His IPA rounded out my tasting for the night and I ended on a beer called “Reale” (recommended to me by the waitress).  It was delivered in a pint glass with a thick white head.  The aroma was heavily hops (typical of an IPA) and the first sips were incredibly smooth and had almost a watery mouthfeel with a light hop flavor throughout without having too much bitterness.

This bar saved the beer drinking part of the trip and we hit the streets once again in search of a place to eat.

Speaking to the employee inside Gradi Plato

While wandering around we stumbled into a small craft beer store called “Gradi Plato” (bottles of Sierra Nevada, Brooklyn Brewery and Dogfish Head were displayed in the front).  The shop was incredibly small and it could definitely not fit more than 4 people in it at once and I had a hard enough time turning around when I entered.  There was a tall man sitting behind the counter and I could tell he didn’t know what to make of me yet (just another tourist?).  He had long black hair and a thick grizzly beard.  His English seemed pretty good so I decided to push it a bit.  We talked about the craft beer scene in Italy which he said had been growing rapidly for the past 5 years.  We discussed American brands (such as Dogfish Head who collaborated with Leonardo Di Vincenzo on My Antonia) and he professed his love for what “we’re doing there” (in terms of beer).  I told him my beer preferences (a drinkable, full flavor beer with little hop bitterness) and he recommended a beer called “Bianca Piperita” (a Belgian Witbier brewed with peppermint) by Opperbacco.  I also told him of our plans to head south and asked him if I could look forward to any good beers.  He informed me that sadly craft beer seems to stop in Rome, and venturing south would yield very little, if any, craft drinking.  I thanked him for his time and bought a bottle of Bianca Piperita for the road.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale

American Beer Brands had a strong presence in Gradi Plato (Brooklyn Lager and Flying Dog Pale Ale)

Dogfish Head's My Antonia

 

The Italian Craft Beer Scene (Part 1: Disappointment in Rome)

The Trevi Fountain at night

Italy is wine country.  That was the main theme I took away from a recent trip to Rome, Sorrento and Positano.  Restaurants offered large, multi-paged wine lists without even a small section for beer.  If you wanted a refreshing malty beverage you had to ask the waiter who would usually respond “local beer” (which was the equivalent to ordering a Miller Light).  This doesn’t mean that craft beer is non-existent, just the demand for it (in the regions I visited) appeared weak.  I was however, able to find a couple of diamonds in the rough and try one of the best beers I have ever had.

Ichnusa is another fairly popular beer in Italy

My research also revealed that big market beers still dominated (as in the United States) and the most popular brands (Peroni, Nastro Assurro and Morreti) were owned by SAB Miller and Heineken respectively.  This news was a bit heartbreaking because I naively thought I could somehow escape these huge companies (I should have known better). But after doing some further research I was able to track down a bar named “Open Baladin.”  It was apparently one of the best places to go for craft beer in Rome (and maybe the country) and I looked forward to immersing myself in Italian beers.  I also pulled out my copy of “The Beer Book” which contains beer information from just about every country in the world (6 of the 336 pages were dedicated to Italy).  I would read all the information furiously in the days leading up to my departure.

Traveling in any foreign country can be a bit stressful and arriving in Italy was no exception.  Rome was hot to put it mildly.  Lugging baggage from the airport to the train station through the metro and then through the streets to our hotel was not the best part of my vacation.  My friend and I arrived at the hotel at around 11am after flying all night and changed our clothes quickly.  We grabbed a map from the front desk, some food from a deli across the street we were off sightseeing.  After about 7 historic sights and a lot of sweat later we decided it was time for a drink.  The Pantheon seemed like the perfect place for that.

Beer is available to purchase from just about any food cart

Rome is probably one of the coolest places to have a beer, especially if you’re close to one of the main attractions.  Observing beautiful architecture and sculptures while sipping on a cold beer watching tourists whiz around is an amazing feeling.  It’s almost like drinking in a time machine.

Having a Peroni in the plaza in front of the Pantheon

The first beer I tried was Peroni, one of the most popular in Italy.  I didn’t realize when I ordered it that it’s equivalent to drinking Bud Light.  It’s pale yellow in color, light malty in aroma had a slight malty flavor – incredibly drinkable but not much else going on.  I was curious about the taste so I decided to check the ingredients and see if it was brewed with the “traditional” ingredients (water, malt, yeast and hops).  I was able to figure out most of the ingredients (they were in Italian) but got a little stumped when I got to “granturco”.  I called the waitress over and asked her what it meant and she replied “corn” (her response upset me a bit).  Not even in Europe could I escape cheap adjuncts.  Ichnusa Special and Nastro Azzuro (two other beers I tried) were also made with corn and tasted “cheap”.

Despite the beer selection an interesting thing about Italy is that beer is sold everywhere.  Food stands on the streets, souvenir shops, gelato shops all carried some selection of beer.  I’m assuming that this is because of an absence of a regulated distribution system (e.g., the United States has in the three tier system).

A bottle of Biere Du Demon

We wandered into a supermarket for breakfast food for the next morning.  I was pretty frustrated by the beer up until this point and thought that maybe the supermarket could help ease my pain (which it did to a certain extent).  There was a wide variety of beers available and many of them looked “craft” even though I wasn’t sure of most of the brands.  I decided to go with a beer called “La Biere Du Demon” (it boasted a 12% ABV and I was intrigued).  I had it in the hotel room later that night.  It smelled of heavy malt and maybe a hint of yeast and poured a golden color with an off-white head.  The first sips were incredibly malty and tasted even more of alcohol.  I was thoroughly disappointed and immediately had buyers remorse (I couldn’t have picked out something better?!).  It was a beer that had a high alcohol content just for the sake of having it.  The flavors were simple and lifeless.  A bad beer to say the least.

Definitely not the start I was looking for or expecting in terms of beer.  The food and wine were excellent though so I kept my hopes up that we could get some good beer before I left Rome.  Despite the poor beer choices (so far) I was still enjoying the beautiful sights and the amazing atmosphere of an incredible city.  There’s always tomorrow…

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

 

Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu

Style: Herbed/Spiced Beer

Brewery: Dogfish Head Craft Brewery

I had purchased this beer a little while ago but hadn’t gotten around to trying it until now.  I’m a pretty big fan of Dogfish Head as they stand for in craft beer and their constant ability to innovate and push beer to its limits.  Needless to say I was excited to try a beer based on a 9,000 year old Chinese recipe.

The beer poured a golden yellow and orange with a thick white head.  The beer seemed to be filtered and was fairly clear when compared to most of the other ones I’ve reviewed.

The nose was immediately filled with the aroma of citrus and apples (a very interesting combination).  The first sip was complex to say the least.  The alcohol (10% ABV) tickled the back of your cheeks as the hoppy bitterness overtook your mouth but transformed into an amazing honey sweetness.  There was a malty and alcohol aftertaste and the alcohol really provided a cozy warmth as it flowed throughout the body.

It was quite easy to drink at first but the alcohol seemed to build quickly.  Even though it challenged my food pairing ability and was tough to classify It was definitely a beer better with food.  I thought it would go nicely with creme brulee or other rich deserts.

Overall, a very interesting and complex beer that I would definitely try again (with food).  It was a very bright and tasty beer that I thoroughly enjoyed.  If this is what China drank 9,000 years ago I would be very interested to see what other recipes like this Dogfish Head could dig up.

Grade: 90%

 

Extreme Beers: Good or Bad for Business?

Is the extreme beer trend making more subtle beers harder to come by?

“Enjoy the simple things” is a philosophy I have lived by my entire life.  The subtle nuances are what make everything more beautiful.  This is the same for beer.  Despite the fact that subtlety is unique and sometimes rare the “over the top” and “extreme beers” do hold a special place within the marketplace.

Extreme beers are defined by Beer Advocate as “beers with alcohol contents that rival spirits, beers aged in bourbon barrels, beers made with enough hops to rip your tongue from your mouth, beers from yore and beers employing exotic ingredients that make one ponder…”  Many different breweries are experimenting with new techniques (like freeze distillation), rare ingredients and increased hop or malt content.  They are expanding the definition of beer.

As someone who appreciates different styles of beer I am excited to be a part of this beer renaissance.  As we push the boundaries and create new styles we can change and expand the beer world for the better.  It’s important to experiment and explore new opportunities but we must also be careful not to alienate those who are not yet accustomed to drinking craft beer.

The problem with the beer landscape today is that most Bud Light or Miller drinkers feel that craft beer is too “out there” or experimental.  In order to grow the industry as a whole, gateway beers need to be established.  A gateway beer is simply a beer that allows for an easy switch from mainstream beer (Bud Light, Miller, Coors, etc.) to craft beer.  This doesn’t mean that those gateway beers are mainstream or sacrifice flavor in any way. They simply offer an easy transition from often less flavorful mainstream beers into the craft beer world.  I would say a gateway beer is a Samuel Adams Boston Lager or a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.  These beers allow for a smooth transition for traditional beer drinkers who are reticent to stray from their favorite brands into the new forum.

Craft beer companies that offer gateway (or basic) beers as well as the experimental barrel aged, high alcohol content, “extreme” beers tend be more successful.  This isn’t to say an extreme beer company such as Dogfish Head can’t be successful because that’s clearly not true.  The point that I’m trying to make is that the larger companies that offer a greater variety of beers (such as Samuel Adams and Sierra Nevada) create more growth.  They are a jumping off point to the larger world of craft beer for traditional beer drinkers.

With all of that said I think extreme, experimental beers definitely have a place in the beer world.  Experimentation in any industry is a good thing and as long as we also offer those gateway beers our industry will continue to grow to be successful.  I do, however, feel that the more traditional beers (the ones fall inside the guidelines of specific beers styles) should outnumber the more extreme beers.  At some point I predict that the craft beer industry will hit a wall and will not be able to gain a new customer base if the beers are too extreme and scare off potential customers.  For example, if craft beer accounts for 5% of the current industry (according to the Brewers Association) then how do we reach the other 95%?  It isn’t with whacky experimental beers.  It’s with disciplined, toned-down but still flavorful beer styles that may be able to convert some of this crowd. Todd Malloy of the Rifle Brewing Company states “I would caution those brewers who are not balancing their portfolio of beers with something that appeases the newly found craft beer drinker. After all, we are still trying to take away market share from the mainstream brewers.

It should be easy and comfortable to sample craft beer.  You don’t want it to be judged as being “too sissy” or “not extreme enough”.  The flagship beers of breweries should be able to offer that comfort to both casual drinkers and hardcore craft lovers alike.  My first gateway beer was the Brooklyn Brewery’s Brooklyn Lager.  I remember feeling like I had joined an exclusive club.  It wasn’t as if I was looked down upon because it was only a Brooklyn Lager and not a Delirium Tremens for example.

The 2010 top ten craft breweries in America (based on sales volumes) all do this incredibly well.  They offer flagship beers that may not be incredibly “special” but are still delicious and drinkable, while offering more extreme beers.  I would compare this concept for beer to the coffee industry.  Many coffee shops, or at least the successful ones, offer other drinks other than just coffee to get customers in that wouldn’t to near a triple espresso.  Starbucks is able to offer frappuccinos, lattes and several different flavored macchiatos.  This is an incredibly smart way to get non-coffee drinkers to try something different than what they are used to.  They may be a gateway to other coffee drinks but no one should feel ashamed ordering a “cinnamon dolce latte” because they aren’t ready for that triple espresso yet.

The extreme beers have their place in the industry, a very big one, but they need to be balanced by those easy transition beers.  The craft beer industry shouldn’t be threatening and should welcome all of those who want to join.  If someone needs their hand held before diving into the wonderful world of craft beer then we should offer a hand to them.  We want to grow this industry and introduce our amazing beers to the world but we can’t do that if craft beer becomes synonymous only with bizarre and experimental brews.

 

Samuel Adams

When does large get too big?

Samuel Adams pushes my buttons in a bunch of different ways.  In my opinion, they have no right to be able to classify themselves as a craft brewer.  The Boston Beer Company sells 1.8 million barrels of beer a year, controls over 20% of the craft beer market and their stock trades on the NYSE at just over $86 a share.  When this happens I feel you have moved out of the craft arena.  Of course I understand the Boston Beer Co. is bigger than just the Sam Adams brand but that is their flagship and iconic brand they hide behind (especially considering their stock symbol is SAM).

I don’t want to lump Sam Adams in with the Budweiser and MillerCoors of the world, but I have a hard time not doing just that.  Watching Jim Koch try to prove to the world that he still cares about the integrity of his beer through multi-million dollar advertising campaigns is laughable (advertising, promotional and selling expenses came out to be $135,737,000 in Dec. 2010).  He’s contradicting himself.  It’s like saying “my beer is great but don’t rely on your own taste.  I’m an expert on what you like.”  This is the same tactic the large breweries use to convince people that their product is just as good as their competitors.  Why would someone who calls him or herself a “craft brewer” even need to convince me they have a good product?  Shouldn’t the beer speak for itself?  Next thing you know Koch is going to be telling us his beers are “triple hops brewed.”

I find it interesting that neither the Boston Beer Co. nor Samuel Adams have their own twitter pages.  Of course when you’re already spending over $137 million who has the time for free social media?   An open line of communication between business and consumer has never hurt any company and it goes a long way in proving that you think of your customers as knowledgeable and intelligent people as opposed to an open wallet.

Also, co-creating a beer with Dogfish Head does not make it any better.  Budweiser uses a takeover strategy, Sam Adams uses a collaboration strategy.  Pairing up with the hottest, most public and biggest celebrity brewer in America does not make you one too.

In the beer documentary “Beer Wars” we are told that Jim Koch turned down making an investment to a friend and former colleague who was working on a new type of beer.  His argument was he would be helping out a competitor if he were to do so.  Although this is technically true, the competition should be within the taste of the beer itself and if he viewed his friend as such a large threat then he should advise the Boston Beer Co. to absorb the company and make it a new line.  Jim Koch should have more confidence in his beer that helping out a friend in need wouldn’t be an issue.

The Boston Beer Co. is by far the largest “craft brewery” in America, selling over 1.1 million barrels more than the runner up, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company (selling just under 724,000 barrels a year).  So when the Brewers Association raised the production ceiling for craft brewery beer production (from 2 million barrels a year to 6 million barrels per year) who is the real winner?  Because it’s not the consumer and definitely not Sierra Nevada or any of the other breweries lagging behind them in sales.  Boston Beer Co. and Sam Adams are the only ones who come out ahead and even the Brewers Association looks like a bunch of pushovers.  The only reason for this change is to accurately reflect the growth of the craft beer industry.  My question remains does Sam Adams and the Boston Beer Co. deserve to be considered a craft brewer solely on the basis of production and sales?  Shouldn’t craft brewing be judged on more than just that?  Isn’t that what the “craft” label is all about?

Sam Adams Investment Home Page

Top 10 Biggest US Craft Breweries

Brewers Association Press Release